Friday, November 5, 2010

Partnership to Damascus

From Partnership, we hiked to Damascus, the halfway trail town for Harper's Ferry to Georgia. (It's the location for Trail Days, at which point it is mobbed; and it has both the Creeper Trail and the A.T. going through it.) This section also took us through the Highlands

Out from Partnership, the path was remarkably even — here apparently along a road grade.

We made it to Hurricane shelter — a spontaneous 20 miles; we were planning to stop earlier — which was cold and windy and very new-looking. We ran into Frito Lay (I think?), who was a store of local knowledge...

...and saw Farm-A-Sea again, who had packed out some pizza from Partnership and toasted it by the fire for dinner.

The Grayson Highlands!

The balds were very nice — open, good views, and indeed ponies. However, our route was a bit loop: aggravating when you're thinking about southward progress.

(Everyone wants to see the ponies.)

The Grayson Highlands balds are very rocky (early motivation for leaving them as grazing land).

Ponies!

My mom sent chips in a bag labeled "Hope these aren't mush", which seems like too good a label not to re-use.

Strange woods.

Coming out of the highlands, we stopped at Vulture Rock (I think?), which as a high point in a bald featured a great view.

Descending: still fall.

We tented near a shelter the day before Damascus, since we'd heard the shelter had mice (and to have Our Own Space).

I got visited by a big hairy spider (outside the tent) — maybe attracted by my headlamp?

The A.T. intersects the Creeper Trail (which used to be a rail road grade for taking lumber out of the highlands) on its way into Damascus. The trail still features the trestles.

Clearly, something named "Creeper" is a photo op.

Jo pretends to deliberate.

Most of the way the Creeper Trail goes in a river valley with steep ridges on either side (which, of course, the A.T. climbs along); it also bumps out through a few flat areas.

In Damascus: the library; and a mural on the side of the outfitter (which also runs the hostel we stayed in, Dave's Place).

My side of our room in Dave's Place.

Jo's maildrop (as combined from a few sources) was somewhat ridiculous.

Foot update: holding up well. Lots of callouses.

Jo got giant fake feet in her mail drop; A-Bear models them on the main drag.

Our town-and-weather timing continued to be great: there was a downpour while were we managed to time around laundry and breakfast.

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Wood's Hole to Partnership (Map and Photos)

From Wood's Hole hostel (so long ago!), our next stretch was to Partnership Shelter (near Marion, VA; on grounds near the Mt. Rogers visitors center).

Turtle!

Michael (of Wood's Hole) recommended camping at Dismal Falls (or, alternately, the Falls of Dismal) — which turned out to be an excellent suggestion.

Although the water was low for a waterfall, it was lots of water as far as we were concerned; and neat rocks and a nice camping area.

(We didn't go swimming.)

Untried fruit.

We got rained on at Dismal — I think as forecasted — but had a chance to hang things out to dry at the next shelter.

Ramen, with additives: dried tomatoes and mushrooms from my mom (home-grown, home-dried!).

We get excited by trash cans.

Between Dismal Falls and the road, we ran into Edsel a few times, and he (very kindly!) drove us into town for sandwiches (we got him one too), and apples (he had a whole crate to use up). It was impressively windy on the road-walk just before where he was parked; Jo's gear was trying to escape while we all staggered up the hill.

Toad on trail.

I carried in a journal to use as a shelter register — and at last we found a shelter that needed it. So: a welcome page, and a first entry. (The Pooh quote seems especially apt for hikers.)

This must be a nice picture, because I picked it to upload while we were in Damascus. However, on the computer screen at Uncle Johnny's, it looks mostly black. Hopefully it is not!

Camping. (Did you know we were camping?)

Hiking! We also hike. Or at least Jo hikes. Also: these ones really are for Jo's sister.

Chestnut Knob featured an enclosed shelter (which, being an Indoor Experience, turned out not to be that exciting). The descent was a lovely bald with good views of things to come.

Still fall, some places.

A new type of stile — less ladder-climbing involved.

Lots of Virginia features rhododendron forest.

At The Barn — a diner — we were presented with a hiker box! Our waitress used to run the Happy Hiker Hostel (now closed), and was very hiker-friedly.

To our great delight, Marion had a bus which (for 50¢ each) would take us from the visitor's center into town and back! Much easier than hitching a ride.

Partnership Shelter features two levels, as well as a shower (with cool-to-almost-hot water) and a sink out back.

The fame of Partnership shelter: you can order pizza for delivery. (We did. Twice.)

I used up my second container of skin grease (for my sandal-clad feet) — purchased near the end of Shenandoah — and started in on my third.

Coloring! Farm-a-sea was excited to join us in our artistry.

Uncle Johnnie's (Erwin, TN)

We hiked in to Erwin, TN this morning, where we're staying at Uncle Johhny's. Happily, we slid in to the shelter last night before a(nother) rainy night, and just had a wet forest (with orange lizardy types and snails) and some drips this morning on our short hike into town.

Tomorrow's a zero; the two days after, we're going to hike with Jo's friends Anya and Josh (slack pack from somewhere south back into Erwin), and then it's on to Hot Springs.

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Greasy Creek Friendly (Hostel)

We've gone over Roan Mountain, and are staying the night — and maybe zeroing — at Greasy Creek Friendly. (Dial-up! No photos for now...)

The gradual climb up to Roan was more fun than the mountain itself: lots of great views from the balds on and around Hump Mountain. Roan had interesting forest, though: very wet, and evergreens. We stayed in Roan High Knob shelter last night — the highest shelter on the A.T. — and today were feeling the strain of lots of climbing yesterday and non-restful shelter company last night, so we're taking a break.

Greasy Creek Friendly is named (a) for the nearby Greasy Creek (in turn so named for the sheen the iron-rich soil in the area gives to the water) and (b) in opposition to the decidedly unfriedly neighbor whom C.C. (the proprietress) has long been suffering.